Please share your
experience of using WOOF! products. Our other customers are always
interested to know what type of stove you have, how long you have
had it, how often you use it and which types of WOOF! wood fuel
you use. Any special tips and tricks you use to run your stove
would be appreciated.
Comments
William Lloyd, WOOF! Wood Fuel
16 Sep 2009, 23:24
I have an Esse Ironheart and a Woodwarm stove. If the stoves have been out
for a while or it has been raining and I know the chimney will be cold and
damp I always try to warm the flue first by screwing up newspaper and
burning it, usually a whole broadsheet. This helps the chimney to draw and
makes lighting easier.
Before I open the stove door to reload with logs I always open the air
controls to send any smoke up the chimney, then I always just open the door
a jar for a second before fully opening it. Otherwise I get smoke in the
room.
Last year I bought a flue pipe thermometer, its magnetised and sticks to
the flue pipe. It shows the ideal temperature for the flue gasses. If your
stove gasses are under about 200C then you are likely to make dangerous
creosote in the chimney. Over 400C you are sending heat up the chimney and
wasting fuel. A very useful device and slightly addictive.
E. Mallinson
22 Oct 2009, 19:45
Great website, will try some fuel at some point(fortunately have a huge
stock at present)
We run a Moderator 10kw waste wood boiler which heats our home and hot
water easily. it requires feeding about 3 times a day and generally will
stay in through the night. Brilliant!
We burn a sawn up pallet a day.
Steve Power
16 Nov 2009, 22:46
We have had our Scan 4-5 multi fuel stove from Sandpits Heating Centre in
Curry Rivel for just over a year now. At first we were burning nets of
logs from garage forecourts (lack of storage space at home) until we
discovered Woof! I'll never burn the 'wet' logs again that sooted up the
glass and gave little heat in comparison to Woof!'s kiln dried logs. The
other great thing about Woof! is the range of things to burn. We have
tried Heat Logs, Heatabix, Leaf logs, Kiln Dried Logs, Bark Logs, Rastafire
and Blazers. Next up is Straw Logs!
It's great fun burning all this stuff and trying different combinations to
get the best fire. My personal favourite at the moment is a structured
(ordered, criss-cross layers of kiln dried kindling, about 11 sticks) 2 Zip
Natural Fire Lighters or 2 Flamers, 2 Heat Logs or Heatabix on top of the
kindling and a good sized Kiln Dried Log on top of that. The Heat
Logs/Heatabix provide a good, hot, slow burning base to the fire with good
flame from the log. Very little smoke and a lot of heat! I keep this
topped up with another Kiln Dried Log and then a Blazer or Bark Log for an
overnight burn.
Alternatively if the fire has died down I might throw on a Leaf Log, which
catches light really quickly.
Happy burning!
David Nightingale
22 Jan 2010, 20:08
Use a small wood burner. During the day, it is fed a diet of Blazers, with
the burner air inlets throttled back, after intially getting them going.
Blazers, the name says it all. Usually breaking a log in two. Just
carefully drop one on another only from about half a metre hight, at the
half way point. This is important because they expand inside the burner.
With a small burner, depending upon how the log sits inside, it can expand
into the flue pipe blocking the exit for the hot exhaust gases. As it says
on the bag, little ash, and what is left over can be used on the garden,
ash contains minerals.
Bark logs at night, again breaking the logs up into smaller lengths. They
don't burn as hot, but they do keep the fire in overnight. It is rare to
have to resort to starting the fire a fresh. Clean out the ash in the
morning, which should be done with great care as it can still be very hot.
Watch out for hot sparks and coals (fire hazard). Then leave it in the ash
tray to cool down most of the day before emptying.
Wood burners are great because the fire is enclosed, and neither the Bark
logs or the Blazers pop like ordinary logs can. However one spark, maybe
when cleaning out the ash, could get out of control. Always have a fire
extinguisher and fire blanket in the house.
On a lighter note: If you have a flat top on your wood burner. Might not
work on all wood burners, but a baking cooling wire tray on top, makes a
great baked potato stand. Turn the potatoes regularly, beware very hot, use
oven gloves. It can take a bit of balancing, or put potatoes in a group,
sort of like mobile phones or hand bags at a party! Propping each other up,
so all sides have been browned, sometimes a bit carbonised (blackened). If
you like spicy, a heaped teaspoon of paprika, about a third of ground
chillies, add a drop of cold pressed organic oil, stir and then mix into
the potato.
Again ontop of the baking cooling wire tray, it is possible if a bit slow,
to heat water using a Crusader mess tin. This mess tin has quite a tight
fitting lid so there is less chance of spilling hot boiling water. There
may be some leakage onto the top of the burner, it will steam off but might
leave a mark. You can also warm soup up in the winter, for a nice cozy
fireside snack.
Usual quantites per year are a couple of pallets of blazers and a pallet of
Bark logs.
Many thanks to Woof Wood Fuels for their excellent service.
Simon
18 Oct 2010, 11:25
Hi Will,
Thanks for this delivery and the pack of bark logs. I have to admit I had
my doubts about the bark logs. Particularly as we don't run a stove
overnight, I was not sure they would be any use to us. However, after
starting our wood burning stove with kindling and burning a few blazers,
which quickly heated up, I stuck a bark log on to try. To my astonishment
this one log continued to kick out heat, maintaining a nice even warmth,
for the rest of the evening. It was still going strong when I went to bed
nearly three hours later. Admittedly it is not yet very cold, but I was
very impressed. I can now see that the bark logs will work very well
alongside the blazers, so I will be putting in another order for a batch of
these. But I can see that they will save me money in the long run, because
of the long slow burn, so thanks for giving me a chance to try them. One
day we might even switch over to some form of wood-fired heating for the
whole house, as we don't like having to use oil for the main heating,
although I don't think we are quite ready just yet.
Best wishes
Simon
Natasha Gowdy
26 Jan 2011, 20:58
Dear Will
Can you give me any advice on pellet stoves (not boilers). We would like to
put a small (5-7KW) pellet stove in our large hall to provide space
heating.
We are a bit confused on the best stove - some people say buy Austrian,
others Italian or Scandanavian
It needs to look fairly good - we like to look of the Ravelli Lisa plus,
Extraflame Rosie or Rika como.
We also need a good installer in south west.
Kind regards
Tasha
Tamsin
20 Feb 2011, 09:35
I have recently moved and the cottage has a Jotul 8 woodburner,
unfortunately no manual or advice was left by the previous owner. Can you
please tell me what the best wood is for me to burn.
Thank you
Susie Grainger
02 Mar 2011, 22:27
Hi, i have a rayburn nouvelle that heats my water, and 12 radiators
throughout a large house. And does the cooking. At the moment i'm using
phurnacite at a cost of about Ł40 a week. I'm starting to think burning
banknotes would be a cheaper option. What product/s of yours would work in
my system and save me money. I've tried using wood in the rayburn but it
doesn.t seem to get as hot. I'm out at work all day so it needs to be
something that will stay in all day. I also have an open fire and
woodburning stove so if you had something that would work on all 3 that
would be great. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated
many thanks
susie
Will Lloyd
10 Mar 2011, 10:15
Hi Susie,
At WOOF!WOODFUEL We do have quite a few customers who have
Rayburn’s and the clear favourite is our Heatabix product mainly I think
because the rectangular shape suits the Rayburn firebox.With woodfuel you
will be very impressed with heating up times and the kettle will boil
really quickly after lighting up. A few years ago Rayburn did do a
promotion with Blazers fuel logs (When you bought a new Rayburn you go a
pallet of Blazers) Blazers are very good for rapid heat especially on
boiler and central heating stoves and will suit your other fires.The
National trust even use them to power the boiler of their steam
boat,Gondala,on Coniston water. Many of our customers are now using these
in combination with Bark logs, because the Bark logs will burn for a long
time very slowly, and the Blazers or Heatabix for high heat. I think if you
are spending Ł40.00 per week then our products would work out cheaper and
you could use them on all multi fuel and wood burning stoves. Another
advantage is the much lower and substantially cleaner ash content of our
Fuel logs, and you can use it on the garden.
The most cost effective way to buy the Blazers, Heatabix or
Bark logs is by the full pallet and I would be happy to supply mixed
pallets. I would suggest starting with a sample order to find out which
will work best for your Rayburn as all wood burning appliances have
different charateristics,depending on geographical location,the height of
the flue and prevailing winds.
I do think you will enjoy the Cleanliness and convinience
compared to coal.
Regards Will, 01297 639288
Will Lloyd
10 Mar 2011, 13:24
Jotul is a really good quality stove and the 8 applies to the Kw output.
You should be able to download the operating instructions from the Jotul UK
website or ask a local stove centre as they will also be able to provide
maintenance and spares. In particular I would check the door rope, as the
way this seals makes a huge difference to the efficiency and safety of the
stove.
In terms of the WOOF! WOODFUEL range, I would suggest Kiln Dried Logs
(Hardwood) 35cm if it will take that size. I would also suggest for an 8 Kw
stove the Blazers Fuel Logs for fantastic heat and flame. Not to mention
ease of use and convenience. Once again if you are wanting to keep the
stove in overnight you could use the Bark logs as they burn for up to 10
hours. Some of our customers find that the WOOFERS are a good halfway house
and will stay in at night as well. With all Fuel logs or Briquettes you
will find there is far less ash (around 1%) than with normal logs. As a
guide Kiln Dried Logs at under 20% moisture give around 4.5kw,and most
Briquettes will give around 4.8-5kw at less that 10% moisture content.
Blazers however are rated at 5.5Kw and great when heating water in boiler
models.
After making some cursory checks that the stove has been installed
correctly and the chimney has been recently swept. I would suggest making a
small fire with kindling and just letting the flue warm up and dry out in
case the stove has not been used for a while. This will help with the draw
when adding more fuel.
Will of the Woof.
JT
16 Mar 2011, 16:22
I've just been browsing your website with interest.
For 2 years we've been running a big Morso woodburner using 12 and 18 inch
logs. It's been a real struggle getting reliable seasoned wood and having
just taken delivery of supposedly 18 month old hardwood which is still damp
and not burning well I've decided to explore alternatives.
I'm interested in the kiln dried logs and eco fuel logs but can't decide
which would be best.
Our aim has been to keen the woodburner ticking over 24 hrs a day during
the winter as the main heat source for the home. This winter we'll have
used about 4 tons of "seasoned" wood I reckon.
WL
16 Mar 2011, 16:26
Thank you for your enquiry, yours is a familiar story,(You
are not alone) and in many ways is also my personal experience of the
firewood market.
The Joiners nut’s and Heatabix will be too small for your stove (but you
might like them for lighting) and it will gobble them up.The Verdo logs are
good,and very good for your pocket.The Woofers are not quite as hot as
Blazers but slightly out-last them in a medium sized stove, kiln dried logs
are very good,and we do sell a 35cm and sometimes a 33cm one, BUT at the
tail end of winter even the kiln dried wood is not as good as it can be and
I think you might be disappointed.I would recommend waiting to get some
kiln dried from August onwards when it will be excellent again,and you will
notice the difference.
So at the moment I am suggesting Eco fuel logs,for a big stove like yours I
would suggest you start with Blazers fuel Logs, pricewise the way I compare
them is that a 1.2m3 bulk bag of Kiln Dried logs weights in at approx.
335kg at say 20% moisture content with a heat output of about 4.5 kw that’s
hours per Kg.The full pallet of Blazers weights 1080 kg, 5.5 kw and less
than 10% moisture content.
I have a big Hunter Herald 14 kw central heating burner and I use blazers
and bark logs to keep it going.I put two blazers and one bark log on at a
time.
In terms of your other wood you might find that you can get the stove
really hot with a few blazers and then get the other logs burning nicely
because of the heat from the Blazers and get through the rest of the winter
by mixing them.
My suggestion is to start with Blazers and Bark logs as samples,if you like
them I think you will find the price on full pallets not too bad compared
to “Seasoned” logs because of the heat benefits and you soon get to like
the convenience and ease of use.
LL
16 Mar 2011, 16:28
We've just had a wood burning pizza oven built in our garden and we are
struggling to get good, enduring fires going - the newspaper burns out and
the wood hardly catches. We've been told not to use firelighters or any
other chemical product (since we'll be cooking in the oven). I think part
of the problem is our kindling seems damp. Any advice on which of your
products are appropriate for wood burning pizza oven? I'm hoping we'll get
lots of use out of it so would love to find reliable delivery company
Reply from Will
16 Mar 2011, 16:32
The quick answer is use our kiln dried kindling,our natural fire
lighting Tindersticks, and then Heatabix, and then Kiln dried logs and send
me some Pizza round afterwards!
I love wood fired pizza ovens,and I think we can provide some
help in getting the oven really nice and hot.Obviously I am not sure
exactly how yours is designed but most are a refractory dome with an outlet
for the chimney just above the door of the stove,some have actual chimneys
and some not,I also assume you are lighting the fire in the oven as per
normal wood fired ovens.
Being in North West London you might also encounter some smoke control
issues but our products should keep you out of trouble.The main overriding
principle is that you need ultra dry wood,apart from the fact that it will
get hotter more quickly it will also give you a virtually smoke free fire
within a few minuets of lighting up.The difference with getting a fire
going in a Pizza oven as compared to a Wood burning stove or open fire in
a house is that there tends to be very little “draw” from a chimney.So you
need to start a very small fire and build it up as it burns,the hotter it
gets the more efficient and hotter the fire will be,the hotter it is, the
more it can burn and so on.If the fire is Smokey it tends to mean over
fuelling in the early stages.
I would use some a “Tinderstick” to light a handfull of Kiln dried kindling
to start with,once that is burning nicely I would add another handfull of
kindling as required and even another one so it is burning nicely with a
small bed of coals on the floor of the oven.I would then add some small
kiln dried logs to the fire just one or two and make sure they are really
burning before adding more.You could at this stage also use our Heatabix
product as this is easy lighting just one or two at a time,then when nice
and hot add the kiln dried logs.
During the lighting up process the inside of the dome will blacken but once
up to temperature all the soot will burn off and it will be fantastically
clean,as a rule of thumb you are then ready to cook.Just to slightly
contradict myself,once up to temperature and you have pushed the fire back
you could roll in some of our “Joiners Nuts” as they are pure Oak and will
give a nice Smokey aroma to meat and fish dishes.
WL.
LL
16 Mar 2011, 16:35
Thank you so much for your reply! I needed all of that advice. I would like
to order everything you mentioned. We feel so pathetic not being able to
light a proper fire!
mervyn
09 May 2011, 21:38
we are about to have a norpias bergen fitted can you advise me on the best
fuel to use. it is not our main source of heat but we intend to turn off
the gas when ever possible in the winter, any advise would be gratefully
received.
Will Lloyd
10 May 2011, 10:16
Hi Melvyn,
Norpeis is a Norwegian company and relatively new maker
of stoves having been established in 1984. The Bergen is a 5 kw stove with
nice big glass viewing area and is highly efficient with all the modern
attributes required for a clean burning stove.
In terms of fuel it is a pure Wood Burner so will have a flat floor, no
grate and only Burnswood. I think the Bergen is rated by DEFRA for use in
smoke control areas.
I would suggest in the first instance some kiln dried logs; they should be
all Hardwood, and perhaps a mix of Ash, Beech. I would also suggest a look
at the WOOF! Eco Fuel logs range, perhaps starting off with Blazers Fuel
logs, and some Joiners Nuts to get the fire going. The great advantage of
Eco – Fuels is consistency in that they are always less than 10% moisture
content and give less ash and more heat. The higher burn leaves fewer
residues in the chimney and you burn less wood for more heat.
As with any new stove you might find it takes a few small fires to burn of
all the factory processes and that the room should be well ventilated as it
can be a bit smelly.
I have found that many modern stoves with secondary burn need the fire box
to get really hot before they start to operate correctly, as they are
designed to inject hot air back into the fire box to re-burn the gases, and
this is heated by the fire. There also seems to be a cultural difference
between our attitude to wood burning and that of the Scandinavian country’s
in that we traditionally expect to burn long and slow, but you might find
it works better burning at a higher rate for shorter periods of time.
I hope this help and look forward to hearing from you soon.
Will.
Ivan Dawson
12 Sep 2011, 19:25
We have dunsley heat smokeles multi-fuel stove with back boiler which we
have been burning kiln dried logs on but would like to change to the
eco-logs, could you advise which would be the best and which would stay the
night as at present we have to use smokeless coal at night as logs dont
last Thanks Ivan
Jon Hindle
03 Oct 2011, 14:09
We do not have a central heating system but rely on 2 stoves:
(A) Jotul 3kw wood-burner; used occasionally spring and autumn as a
'top-up' heat source
(B) Villager 'Bayswater' 8kw multifuel burner. This stove is lit
permanently November-March as primary heat source. We previously used high
quality anthracite as fuel.
We're looking at alternative fuel sources and would be grateful if you
could advise which of your products would be most suitable for each stove.
Also, any approximate idea on 'consumption rate' for the Villager stove
using the recommended product would be very helpful.
Thanks!
steve
19 Oct 2011, 15:19
We have a cheap log burner that we brought back from Turkey complete wıth
extra 5ın dıameter bends and straıght sectıons .We have set the burner
up ın our lounge here ın Cornwall just the same as ıt was ın Turkey .We
cant even try to lıght ıt wıthout fıllıng the house wıth smoke
.Draught seems to be cımıng back down the flue pıpe .Any ıdeas .ps.we
dont have any kınd of cowl
WL
19 Oct 2011, 16:11
Hi Steve,
Firstly you must get your stove installed by a HETAS
registered engineer or have the installation passed by your local building
control officer. As it is with smoke coming in to the room this is highly
dangerous, and you should cease to use it immediately.Once this is done,a
simple tip is to make sure the flue is warm and dry otherwise it will not
draw properly,I would suggest burning some small amounts of Kiln Dried
Kindling for an hour or so then just a very small fire with some of our
Hotties Heat Logs. The smoke is also caused by wet wood not combusting
properly.Atmospheric weather conditions such as low pressure can also cause
even the best fires to be problematic.
james
28 Oct 2011, 20:05
we have occasional problems getting the draw up the chimney before smoke
starts pouring into the sitting room. is it the type of newspaper we use?
once the draw is going its perfect. (we have an external metal chimney)
Will
01 Nov 2011, 08:25
I would have thought it very unlikely that it is the type of newspaper you
are using, although it is tempting to make a witty (not) comment about the
political affiliations of said newspapers and their affect upon the
chimney.
The most likely cause is that being and external chimney and I assume
metal, that in common with all solid fuel flues, until it is sufficiently
warm it will not draw properly. The smoke is probably worst when the fire
creates a dew point in the flue and the warm gases rising from the fire
condense on the metal and produce water vapour, this in effect causes a
temporary blockage and the smoke comes back down in to the room.
There are a number of ways to combat this but the simplest is to just start
a really small fire with just screwed up balls of news paper, then just one
or two pieces of Kiln dried Kindling which will burn without smoking, then
some very dry wood fuel ,like an Eco fuel log. Hotties Heat Logs would be
good as they are very low in moisture at 5%.
The other way is to try and keep the chimney warm all the time, this is
where our Shredded Heat Bark logs come in, they will gently glow away for
up to 10 hours just keeping the stove and most importantly the flue warm.
It might be worth signing up to our free guide how to get more “Heat
happiness comfort and joy from your stove” on the Woof wood fuel home
page.
Hello
I have trouble with my multi-fuel Merlin stove as i cant seem to stop the
glass going black. I am burning kiln dried wood specifically to stop this
but it is still happening. I now think it must be the way i am setting the
fire. Is there a sequence i could try to see if i can keep my glass clean?
it does have an airwash system but in face the worst of the black on the
glass is at the top!
many thanks for any help you can give
Will Lloyd
04 Nov 2011, 09:46
Hi Steve and Maxine,
I am not familiar with MERLIN stoves and
I would suggest contacting them directly. It is also worth just checking
how
dry the kiln dried logs are and that they are Hardwood Ash and Beech,as Oak
can give problems when lighting.
The best tips I can give is to clean the glass so you can check the results
and then try this. Most stove glass blackening is caused by the fuel (but
not in your case as you are using Kiln Dried Logs) or the stove not being
sufficiently hot before reducing the air supply. Try a very low fire for
quite some time with balls of newspaper and small pieces of Kiln dried
kindling,then add just one small kiln dried log,and do not add another one
until it has at least half burned away.Just do this to slowly build up the
fire without over loading the fire and keeping the air vents open.Once you
have a nice even fire established with hot embers spread across the grate
add
again only one or two logs and ensure they are burning well with flames
before attempting to reduce the air supply to control the rate of burn.
You may find that Wood briquettes give better results as they are even
drier
at around 5-10% moisture content.
I would suggest trying to light the stove using our Certainly Wood Kiln
Dried logs or Hotties Heat logs.We also have a new product called Firemagic
(on the web site soon) that is a brilliant new fire starter without the
need
for fire lighters or kindling.
I hope this helps,please let me know how you get on it helps with our
knowledge base.
I would also suggest signing up for our free guide "Get more heat happiness
comfort and joy from your stove" on the WOOF home page.
Best wishes Will.
Chris Caudwell
13 Nov 2011, 17:28
Hello,
I was told by the guy who fitted my wood burning stove that I should not
burn paper briquettes because the newsprint will damage the chimney liner.
Truth be told I have absolutely no idea. I have never really
thought about this before,I assume we are talking about the paper
briquettes
you make by soaking the newspaper and then squashing in to blocks.It is
hard
to imagine there is sufficient acid residue in the newsprint to damage a
good quality stainless steel chimney flue liner.Might be worth contacting
the flue supplier if your really concerned.
I should of course mention some of the many excellent wood based super dry
wood briquettes,heat logs and eco fuels we supply which are excellent in a
modern wood stove. Verdo logs for the budget conscious consumer, Hotties
heat logs for the smaller stove,Blazers fuel logs for the ultimate in
heat,great for large stoves and back boilers and finally our two own brand
products Heatabix and Shredded Heat the overnighter.There is as i
understand it a theoretical possibility of damaging the stove and liner
when burning wood and coal together,and I would advise avoiding that.
Thanks for the question. I would be interested to know what the supplier
says you could try Specflue
Robert Hobson
24 Nov 2011, 14:42
Hi we have a Lilyking Multifuel Iron Stove with back boiler and this will
be our first winter using the stove. Could you recommend the fuel please?
At the moment we are using the compressed paper (which is good), seasoned
logs and wood cuts from my brother in laws factory but I would like to know
which solution you sell/recommend?
Many thanks
julie fisher
06 Dec 2011, 14:02
Hi,
Can you tell me the best over night burner.
You have 2 on line, which one burns longer.
Will Lloyd
07 Dec 2011, 10:46
I would say the Shredded Heat bark logs are the best quality and longest
burning of the two.The aptly named "Wood Briquettes" are very good for full
high heat and also can do some overnight burning if required.
The "wood briquettes" are also one of the few briquettes I have found that
perform as well on an open fire as in a stove.
Victoria
12 Dec 2011, 10:34
We have recently purchased a loveholme multi-stove 5kw and we burn
well-seasoned wood, but we have to top it up every hour. The room for logs
seems to be quite small, although I’m not sure as we never had a
multi-stove before. The only way we can get a burn overnight is by using
smokeless coal and that seems to generate too much ash for the pan. I do
like to see a flame, but then on cold nights heat has to be more
important.
I love the fact you offer sample bags, which products do you recommend that
I should give a try?
Will o' the Woof
12 Dec 2011, 10:50
Hi Victoria,
Slender, sleek, with Danish styling: the Løvenholm makes
a great centrepiece for any room. With it’s huge glass window, this stove
provides a stunning display of dancing flames.Makes me sound like Bruno
Tonioli!
As this is a DEFRA approved stove you wil have trouble keeping it going at
night with wood.
I would reccomend you try our Shredded Heat Bark logs which will burn for
up to ten hours in most stoves,and or you could try our "Wood Briquettes"
product that are a slightly budget version of the Bark logs, they will
leave more ash but are great in full multi fuel stover and open fires.
Anne
13 Dec 2011, 15:58
How do I keep my wood burner (Clearview Vision 500 with back boiler) from
gobbling up the logs? I understand that you should keep the temperature
around 400 F to ensure clean burning but this seems to use up about 1 or
two logs every hour. If I slide in the airwash knob and close the damper
then the temperature goes down to around 200F if I don't keep putting logs
on. We need to use the burner as a heat source during the day/evening and
eventually would like to run it overnight as we have a very cold kitchen.
Can you help as, at the moment, the logs are costing almost as much as
using the oil!!
Thanks for any advice.
Victoria
15 Dec 2011, 20:52
Hi
Thank you for such a quick response. I ordered some of your sample packs
late Monday night, because of your quick response to my post on here. I
couldn’t believe it as they arrived on Wednesday. We put one blazer on
and WOW what a lot of heat…it also burnt for two and half hours. One
Verdo Wood Briquettes also burnt for around hour and half. They just seem
so much easier to use and great to stack in the garage. Thank you for
offering the sample packs it’s a great way to try what works for your
fire. Using the different types also offers greater versatility when it
comes to needing quick heat or long burn. …just come in from watching my
son play football and stuck half of a blazer on (axed in half, because it
got too hot in the room before)… we have all warmed up lovely…Looking
forward to trying a Shredded Heat tonight as they have forecast snow .. I
will be coming back when I’ve tried all my samples.
Thanks once again
Victoria
Louise Jane
15 Dec 2011, 23:06
Hi, this is our first winter in our new home where we have inherited a
Coalbrookdale Severn multi fuel stove as our only heat source for our water
and 7 radiators. I like the idea of using wood and am currently using
briquettes that I purchased elsewhere before finding your site. They are
wonderfully convenient but do not burn particularly hot, and struggle to
heat the radiators or water above warm. They also don't burn very long,
which is a pain when I work shifts and hate the cold! Ideally, I would like
hotter days and enough warmth for comfort at night. I am really hoping that
you can suggest a solution!
Will from WOOF
15 Dec 2011, 23:55
This is a reply to Anne from 13th Dec,I should just add that any questions
etc with out an obvoius answer have been replied to privately.
It is hard to comment on the Clearview 500 as I have never owened one,but I
have many many customers with cleatrview's and they are clearly exellent.
As a general comment boiler stoves do have their own advantages and equal
draw backs and in many ways there are two main schools of thought.One is
that they are a big nonsence,they rob the heat from the stove giving it to
the water in the boiler and cause firing problems by reducing the
temperature of the fire box to the extent of dis-allowing an effiecient
burn causing flue and chimney problems. The other side of the coin is that
they soak up excess heat in an efficient manner and translate it in to free
hot water,making the solid fuel appliance very efficient indeed.I agree
with the later provided they are installed and managed correctly.You need
to have the flow and return water temperature managed correctly and with a
big boiler stove consider a thermal store to balance the load during heavy
demand.
For anyone wishing to heat water in ther boiler model stove I would always
reccoment using BLAZERS fuel logs as they give huge amounts of heat and
therefor masses of hot water. Try them and see the difference.
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